Construction Guide

This chapter discusses how to install the Yankee Barn interior finish package including additional frame, flooring, interior partitions, window and door trim, and chamfer strips.

Most Yankee Barn packages come with all the interior trim required to finish the outside walls (except baseboards) and cathedral ceiling, unless specifically deleted from the order. This means that no additional window casings, for example, need to be supplied locally.
Some packages do not include all items. Review your specifications for the trim you selected. Note that buildings without a structural post and beam frame may require additional trim by builder, for example drywall connections, where the wall meets the roof.
This is a good time to review the Construction Plans transmittal form that you received with your plans to be sure that you have all the plans, reference plans, and lists that were sent. See illustration 7.1 for a sample transmittal form.
The following trim information has been arranged in a suggested sequence of events, though you may choose to rearrange it to suit your priorities:

1. Additional frame materials:
   
   1. Knee braces (knee braces against walls should be left until after walls are plastered and painted.)
   2. Attic beams
   3. Other additional frame
2. Attic flooring/laminated planking
3. Interior partitions
4. Mechanical rough- in
5. Dry wall/plaster
6. Window and door trim (and chair rail, if any)
7. Baseboard

Other interior finishing materials, such as stairsets, balcony railings, doors, and paneling are discussed in Chapters 8.

Illustration 7.1 : Sample Transmittal Form

Transmittal
Yankee Barn Homes 131 Yankee Barn Road Grantham, NH 03753 (603) 863-4545	Date:_______________________ Job:________________________ Sheet No. ____ of ____ Calculated by: _______________

Construction Plans
	Pg. No.	Description
	1.1	First Floor Plan & Ext. Wall Panel Layout
	1.2	Second Floor Plan & Ext. Wall Panel Layout
	S1.1	Foundation Plan
	S1.2	First Floor Deck Layout
	A2.1	Exterior Elevations
	A2.2	Exterior Elevations
	A3.2	Cross Sections
	S1.3	2nd Floor Component Layout & Corresponding Details
	Z3.1	Roof Panel Layout & Details
		Structural Post & Beam Layout 1st Floor Deck
	Z1.1	Structural Post & Beam Layout Above 1st & Below 2nd Floor
	Z1.2	Structural Post & Beam Layout Above 2nd Floor
	Z1.3	Isometric drawing of posts, girts and floor beams
	Z1.4	Isometric drawing of plates and roof beams above second floor
Reference
	-100r	Typical Axonometric & Corresponding Timber Frame Details
	-101t	Traditional Trim Details
	-101v	Trim Details
	Z4.2	Standard Wall Panel Details
	-103	Rail & Stair Handrail Details
	Z4.5	Building and Panel Sealing
Lists (8-1/2x11 Parts List)
		Stairs, rails & balusters
		Additional frame
		Dimensional lumber list
		Interior trim list
		Exterior trim list
Other
		Construction Guide
		Calculations
		Greenhouse trim details

Yankee Barn ships additional frame pieces, including decorative framing pieces and spare frame parts. These pieces will be listed, along with the piece code, on the “Additional Frame Material” sheet in the paperwork shipped in the grocery box with the Yankee Barn package.

7.2.1 Knee Braces

Usually knee braces are not structurally required because of the strength of the timber frame. Sometimes for extra long beam spans, or additional racking resistance, a structural knee brace is required.

Decorative knee braces are optional and must be ordered.  You and your builder should decide where you want knee braces once the shell is up. Typical decorative knee brace locations include:

1. At roof beam to post intersections
2. Two at each corner, post to plate
3. At eave plate to post intersection (if room permits).

Decorative knee braces should be installed after partitions have been constructed and covered with drywall or plaster and painted. See Section 7.6 Interior Partitions.

Decorative knee braces are installed at a 45-degree angle and are fastened with 10d cut nails, or 20d galvanized finish nails. The ends are precut, but may require custom fitting.

On some designs, some knee braces are structural. Structural knee braces will be noted on your post and beam layout page. Structural knee braces are either bolted to the post and roof beam or fitted into a precut notch in the post. The knee brace must be notched into the roof beam on-site. In such cases, a special detail is provided.

7.2.2 Attic Beams
Attics, when included in a design, are supported by attic beams, “ABs”, which span between structural posts.
The main attic beams, under the roof beams, have been installed with the structural frame. Beams framing and supporting the attic stairway are installed at this time. Beams are put in at a level to be flush to the bottom of the laminated planking. See Section 7.4 Laminated Planking for information. Some attic beams may have concealed hangers. Refer to the Structural Frame Layout for any hangers.

Attic Beam Installation Instructions:

1. Cut beams to fit dimensions of attic floor as specified on the plan.
2. Nail as required to support the attic floor.

Yankee Barn laminated planking consists of three layers of 1" (nominal) boards glued together into a single unit. The layers are arranged to create a tongue and groove joint along the length and at the ends of each laminated plank (See Illustration 7.4A: Planking Installation). Enough extra planking is provided to compensate for a normal amount of waste due to cutting.
The planking has a V-groove on the bottom. The top is usually sanded and finished on site for country style pine flooring. The top sides are slightly wider than the bottom sides, allowing you to get a uniformly tight joint on the floor surface, and leaving a slight gap between planks on the bottom surface. The bottom surface forms a plank ceiling in the rooms below.

Laminated Planking Installation Instructions:

1. Laminated planking is glued along the full length of each plank as well as the ends and at beams. Toe nail at the beams with 40d common galvanized nails (See Illustration 7.4A: Planking Installation). It may be necessary to predrill, especially when nailing near the end of the planking. Both the glue cartridges and nails will be found in the grocery box. The glue is applied in a single bead to the side of the top laminate just above the tongue (See Illustration 7.4B: Planking Detail). The tongue itself is undersized for easier installation.
   Illustration 7.4A: Planking Installation
   
   

2. Start laying the planking at whichever end of the building is most convenient. Be sure that the planking is precisely aligned with the building.
3. With the second and subsequent courses of planking, it is not necessary to support the ends over beams. Instead, the end joints should be randomly located, separated by more than two feet in adjacent courses. In addition, the distance between the end joints in rows of decking separated by only one row must be at least one foot. Pieces of planking at the outside edges (supported on one end by the beam) must be at least 20" long. All pieces of laminated planking should be supported by a beam at some point. Avoid short pieces of planking “floating” between supports, held in place only by the adjacent courses of planking.
4. As the planking is being laid, keep checking to see that the courses of planking are remaining in proper alignment with the building. Make corrections gradually, not abruptly.

Illustration 7.4A: B: Planking Detail

When finished, the planking should have tight joints, and will show an uneven surface. There is no need to be concerned for any markings, dirt or glue which is on the top surface since the flooring will be sanded prior to finishing.
It is extremely important to protect the laminated decking from moisture before and after it is installed. If significant amounts of water are absorbed by the decking, it will swell up. This will throw the posts and walls out of alignment. As the decking dries out, large gaps will form between the courses of planking, marring the appearance of the floor.
You can install a temporary walkway to complete the upper level framing and subsequent wall and roof panel installation before laying the planking. Then the planking can be installed after the roof is finished.

To further enhance the post and beam frame in the Yankee Barn, some homeowners choose an optional decorative post and beam package to frame door openings, corners, and tops of interior partitions. These decorative packages work well with Yankee Barn plank doors. Please see Section 8.1 for more information on doors. This type of decorative frame package for partitions must be installed before the partitions are framed.
Some barns and additions are designed with partial or no structural timber frames. If requested, Yankee Barn can include decorative beams to give the feel of post and beam construction in conventionally framed areas. These decorative beams are usually not installed until after the interior partitions are framed (and sometimes after the drywall is hung).
Decorative beams are not supplied notched or cut to length. Your builder will have to cut and fit them on site.

7.5.1 Post and Beam Frame for Partitions and Doors

Installation Instructions:

1. Referring to the decorative frame list and door schedule in your plans, locate and mark all the decorative post locations on the first and second floor deck.
2. Cut to length and install the posts with cut nails or galvanized finish nails provided. Be sure the posts are plumb and the door openings are correct.
Illustration 7.5.1A: Door and Partition Posts and Beams


 

Additional chamfers can be made on site with a router and a 45-degree chamfer bit.

3. Locate, cut to length, and install the decorative header beams which run along the tops of partitions. Use the cut or finish nails provided, taking care not to drive any which will show in a door opening. Where decorative beams span between structural beams and girts, they may be installed first, with the posts under them. Where decorative beams end at a decorative post, install the post first to avoid exposed beam ends. Notch the post, typically by 1 1/2", then seat the beam.
4. After the interior decorative post and beam frame is in place, the partition can be framed using standard construction practices. See Section 7.6 Interior Partitions.

7.5.2 Extra Decorative Posts and Beams for Trim
Extra beams may be supplied to give the feel of post and beam construction in conventionally framed areas, and are usually not installed until after the partitions are framed (and sometimes after the drywall is hung). See your “Additional Frame List” and floor plans for location of the frame. A decorative beam may be included at the top of some walls, and there may or may not be decorative posts as well.
The decorative frame is not precut which gives you plenty of flexibility in deciding where and how to install it. Sometimes rather than a full beam, a ripping from a beam will give the desired look. For example, at the top of a partition, a 1x4 or 1x6 beam ripping will give the same visual impression as a solid beam and make the finishing easier. This is especially helpful at a plumbing wall, or a wall with a HVAC duct in it. Likewise, if a knee brace is desired where there is a partition, it may be easier to rip the knee brace into two boards to go on either side of the partition, rather than framing around it. Yankee Barn tries to include some eight foot beam rippings from our sawmill with each house, or you can rip your own from the extra beams. If you know you need some specific pieces, we can include them with your order. Since the rippings are mostly a by-product of a sawmill, they are much less expensive than ordering extra beams.

Extra Decorative Beams Installation Instructions:

1. Referring to the additional frame list and floor plans, locate and mark all the decorative post locations on the floor deck.
2. Cut to length and install the posts with cut nails or galvanized finish nails provided.
   Planed frames have two-sided and four-sided chamfered posts. If more than two sides are exposed, use a four-sided chamfered corner. If the post is against a wall, primarily on a perimeter wall, only the two corners facing into the home are chamfered.
   Because the chamfers are held to a specific height off the floor, the bottom of each post has been labeled. All trimming should be done at the top only.
   Additional chamfers can be made on site with a router and a 45-degree chamfer bit.
3. Locate, cut to length, and install the decorative plate beams and then install any decorative rafters.

Interior partitions are framed using standard construction methods. Prior to beginning, consult with your mechanical contractors to determine the location of plumbing and heating chase walls. Often plumbing can be run in a chase inside a closet or in a partition framed with 2 x 6’s. Avoid placing plumbing walls directly under structural beams because building codes will not allow drilling large holes in structural members (small holes for electrical wiring are usually okay). See the plumbing section in Chapter 9 for tips on using island venting to relocate or decrease the number of stacks required. Review the air conditioning section for tips on concealing ducts. Fans and dryer vents can be vented up or down partitions or in dropped ceilings.
If a decorative partition and door kit is provided this will need to be installed first (see 7.5 above).
The interior partitions are installed conventionally except where they meet an exterior drywall wall. At this location the first stud will need to be secured to the drywall using glue and mechanical fasteners such as shields, or toggle bolts. Caulk between post/beams and partition to minimize sound transmission between rooms. Fiberglass insulation can also be used between the studs in an interior partition to decrease sound transmission.
Drywall or Plaster Finishes
Yankee Barn drywall panels are made of a gypsum board designed to receive a veneer plaster finish (often called skim coat) which can be applied smooth or in various textures, such as stucco.
Be sure all panel joints have been screwed together prior to beginning finishing. Plastering should only be done after the heat has been on for three weeks and the board is dry. Stable temperatures and lower relative humidity will help ensure superior results. Veneer plaster has a high tensile strength and usually is applied in only one very thin layer over the taped seams and the entire board. This finish is very durable and resists denting more than regular drywall. Veneer plaster should be primed with an alkyd primer before finish paint or wallpaper is applied.
The veneer plaster board has also been finished like traditional drywall, with seams taped and filled with drywall compound.

Yankee Barn Homes supplies all trim for the Yankee Barn Homes doors and windows installed in Yankee Barn walls, except in unfinished spaces like a garage. This trim is traditional 1x4 trim flat casing, sometime with optional Plinth Blocks.
The windows are supplied with extension jambs to bring the window flush with the interior finish.
Before installing the interiortrim for the exterior doors, review your electrical plans. If you decide to run wires behind the trim or locate switches in the trim, the wiring should be roughed in first, and the trim should be channeled out. Please see Chapter 9 for finishing details.

7.7.1 Traditional Window and Door Trim

Most homeowners choose a traditional window and door trim. Yankee Barn Homes supplies 1" x 4" and 5/⁄4" x 4" planed, clear pine. It is not prestained by Yankee Barn Homes, allowing for your choice of stain or paint to match your decor. The trim is cut to length and sent as a kit, with a 5⁄/4" x 4" head, two 1 x 4 side casings, a 1 x 4 apron, and a milled stool cap (which also serves as the sill extension jamb).

Plinth blocks for the corners of the head casing are an option. If plinth blocks are included with your Yankee Barn, they will come biscuit joined to the head casing. The bottom edge of the Plinth blocks will be rabbited to accept the side casings. If you request it, Yankee Barn will supply additional plinth blocks for trimming interior doors.

Installing Extension Jambs and Traditional Trim:

1. Install the stool cap at the bottom and notch to fit into the rough opening. Install extension jambs at the sides and head of the window. The extension jambs are in standard sizes (either 4 9/16" or 6 9/16"). If your wall is an odd size, you may have to rip the extension jamb to fit.
2. Place side and head casings. The casings should be cut to the correct length, but check that the reveal is even before nailing them. The head casing is designed to overhang the side casings by about 3/8" at each end.
3. Install the precut apron under the stool cap.

 

At the top of the eave plate beam, where the roof joins the walls, a chamfer strip is installed with finish nails. A similar piece is installed on top of the roof beams. If your ceiling is prefinished, Yankee Barn Homes supplies the chamfer strips prestained to match.
The primary purpose of these strips is to conceal the screws holding the roof panels in place. If you plan any electrical fixtures along the roof beams, you should prewire before installing the chamfer strip. Please see Chapter 9 for finishing details.
You should insulate behind the chamfer strip at the top of the eave plate with spray foam. Some builders find it neater to use fiberglass insulation here and it works well as long as the joint was well foamed on the outside when the roof panels were put on.
Some parts of partial frame barns and some additions have no structural frames, so no chamfer strip is required. Usually these structures have 2x6 open wall panels, and any wiring can be run within the walls. The connection between the walls and the roof (both the eave wall and cathedral gable walls) can be finished in one of several ways.

• The drywall can be coated right up to the roof – this requires a steady hand when the roof finish is V-groove pine boards.
• A trim board or beam ripping can be used (see Section 7.5.2). Along the eave walls the top of the trim should be beveled to fit the slope of the roof.
• Decorative beams can be ordered to trim the connection (see Section 7.5).